No one better could have maintained the spirit and aesthetic of Alexander McQueen like Sarah Burton. These pieces are beautiful, lavish, complex & invoke a tossed salad of emotions. I don’t get much of anything cheery, though, (which is probably why this collection didn’t overtake McCartney as my favourite Resort but I digress). But I don’t enjoy speaking about what a collection is NOT. What it IS, is confident. Here, we see Burton has no fear at all. She takes the daunting task she’s been charged with in the wake of McQueen’s suicide and knees it in the balls, especially in pieces like the first posted, red and black chiffon. Such fluidity, such motion. It’s like a cascading waterfall of blood, of passion. The first word that popped into my mind when I saw it was “VICIOUS!” I think that’s a quality we always saw in McQueen’s work and Burton “got it.” She just “got it” and it shows, especially in looks like the last one; a torrentially romantic ball gown that rises from the ashes of a bygone era and commands its place in present day.
I love every single one of these pieces. The tailoring is in another league on its own and the attention to detail invites us to study Burton’s garments as if we were meticulously perusing a museum. These prints tell stories; stories Lee always told us around the campfire of his brilliance.
When Lee passed, I was concerned for the future of the brand. When rumours began that “this person” or “that person” would take over, I was glum. But when Sarah Burton was announced, it just made sense and the proof is in the pudding. I have no doubt Lee’s spirit works alongside Sarah, helping safety-pin and seam fabrics. And I’m sure he’s proud of her, as we all are.
Photos snipped by me, from Style.com. Modeled by Alla Kostromichova.